Basic sewing kit
o Fabric scissors
o Paper scissors
o Sewing cotton the same colour as the fabric.
o Hand sewing needles
o Seam ripper
o Coloured headed pins, large and small
o Tailors chalk or water soluble fabric marker
o Tape measure
vDifferent coloured fabrics, off cuts or fat quarters.
Tip: Choose fabrics that complement and enhance each other for the main design, and for the border use a contrasting colour
- Pencil and paper for templates
- Freezer paper
- Iron on interfacing
Before you start cutting always Iron the fabric
Always use a 1/4in (6mm) seam allowance
Choose a design
Decide the finished use of your project, so you can determine which fabric is best to use.
Templates can be printed off the internet or found in books. Then enlarged/reduced using a photocopier, for the size you require. Or, you can create your own.
Make the template out of cardboard for longer lasting use.
Place the template along the straight grain of the fabric, and trace the template with a tailor’s pencil or chalk. Then, cut out pieces with a pair of sharp scissors.
Draw your motif on the dull side, cut it out and place in on top of the appliqué piece if you lay the plastic-y side down, and then heat it up with an iron (no steam), it will then stick to the surface you have just ironed it to.
NOTE: be careful not to iron it with the smooth plastic side up, or it’ll stick to your iron and cause a mess!
Cut the fabric around the paper and snip the edges where needed. Now iron over the seam on to the smooth surface of the paper, to create a neat edge.
After you have used it as a stencil, you just peel it away. It is such a light adhesion, that it doesn’t leave any residue on your fabric. You can usually reuse this piece several times.
Interfacing has a smooth side and a rough side. Iron it with the rough side down, on the material, using a warm iron. This has now stabilized the material, so you can cut out the patch.
Alternatively, cut the patch out of the interfacing then iron it on to the material. Cut the shape out leaving either no seam if machining, or a ¼ inch seam if turning and applying by hand.
You will notice that the Bond a web has a smooth side and a rough side. Choose your design and then trace your design on to the SMOOTH side. Cut out your shapes leaving a seam away from the drawn line.
Using a hot iron with NO steam gently press your Bondaweb onto the WRONG side of the fabric.
Cut out your shapes using a sharp pair of scissors. Peel the layer of paper on the back off gently. The wrong side of your fabric will be left with a layer of adhesive on it.
Place your shapes right side up on the background fabric,then gently press with a hot iron. The shapes will now be stuck to your fabric.
Keep adding to your chosen designs. Applique by hand using a blanket stitch or the dsign can be worked on a sewing machine.
You use your needle to turn the fabric under. The colour of thread should match the piece of fabric you are appliqueing as closely as possible.
Choose a nice straight, or as close to straight as possible place to start. Use the tip of your needle to turn under the seam allowance.
Bring up your needle from the back, up through the background, and just catch the very edge of your applique piece
Put your needle back into the background, exactly next to where you came up.
Bring your needle back up approximately 1/8th inch away, up through the background and catching the very edge of the applique again.
When you get to a sharp concave curve make your stitches tiny, sewing them as close together as possible, since there is hardly any seam allowance in these areas.
When you get to a fabric point. Sew to the top of the point sewing another stich in the exact same spot. This sets the point in place. Flip under the point, and run your needle along and under it, to get it nice smooth finish. The stitches will help to pull in any bumps in the fabric.
Interfacing can also be used to create a stable edge on more complicated patterns. The edge of the fabric is folded over and secured with a tacking stitch. Then applied to the fabric. The tacking is removed once the patch is secure.
The width of the zigzag stitch used will be determined by the size of the design and the type of fabric being stitched.
Smaller designs will require a narrow row of zigzag stitching. Larger designs can be finished with wider zigzag stitching.
Tightly woven fabrics can be finished with a narrower row of zigzag stitching
The stitches should form a smooth line of satin stitches.
NOTE: If the stitch length is too long, fabric edges will ravel out from between stitches. If the stitch length is too short, the stitches will bunch up and cause the machine to jam.
Practice on a small piece to ensure you have the stitches right.
Start on a straight edge, and a slow sewing speed for more control.
When you come to a curve on the design ease the patch round, following the pattern.
At a corner, stop and reposition the needle so it is at the edge of the patch
To finish hand sew all the edges in.
There are a number of methods to finish the project off. This needs to be sympathetic to the design but still create the wow factor, as well as being practical.
The edges of your project need to be sewn in, to stop the fabric fraying. This can be done by binding the edges with some more of the bias.
If you are feeling adventurous and have some time to play, making your own bias binding can be very satisfying. It also has the benefit of using some of the fabric in your design to complement the finished project.
Using shop bought bias is more time effective and has the benefits of being colorfast and preshrunk.
Bias binding can be bought in cotton, poly cotton and patterned. You can also use alternatives to outline your design and finish your project. Cotton tape and ribbon are good outliners.
Once you have completed the overall design press to seal the fabric into place and check all the binding is sewn on correctly.
To create other interesting features to your project you can add lace, buttons, beads, and sequins etc., anything that enhances the design and enriches the overall effects.
NOTE: if your project is to be worn wear or used be careful where you put the embellishment’s as they may cause irritation.